What does any moisturizer come down to?
- Fats – Oils and butters – for moisturizing
- Waxes for sealing moisture into the skin
- Optional ingredients include preservatives to keep the product from going rancid – vitamin E is a good example – scents like essential oils, and herbal ingredients for medicinal value.
First, you need to pick your formula. Most natural moisturizers (lotion, balm, cream, butter, oil, serum, moisturizer, conditioner whatever you want to call it) are just basically fat and wax plus some little extras, in a particular ratio. The ratio of solid or liquid oils and/or butters and wax depends on form you want your product to take and what job you want it to do.
Oils – If you want to keep it really simple, just use your preferred oil right on your skin. Some options:
- Olive oil, which is readily available and effective as a moisturizer
- castor oil,
- coconut oil, which smells amazing and has natural protective properties,
- almond oil
- jojoba oil
- avocado oil
- macadamia nut oil
- vitamin e oil
- neem oil for fungal infections – great for feet and nails, scalp problems, etc. (it smells a little strong though)
I’d highly recommend investing in getting fair trade versions of your favourite oils and butters.
Balms and butters – If you want a deeply moisturizing solid moisturizer you can keep in a tin or jar, and you don’t mind the product sitting on your skin for a short period of time before it fully sinks in and gets absorbed, you’re going to want to make a balm or possibly a butter. This will usually contain cocoa butter, shea butter, or less commonly mango butter or another kind of butter. It’ll also likely include a wax like beeswax or candellila wax. (I stay away from petroleum-based/derived ones like paraffin.)
Usually the recipe for a balm involves a ratio like the following:
- 1 part liquid oil – like olive oil
- 1/2 part solid (at room temperature) oil – like fair trade coconut oil
- 1/2 part wax – like locally and responsibly sourced beeswax
- 1/4 part butter – like fair trade cocoa or shea butter
- Optional ingredients include a few drops of vitamin e oil to make the product last longer without spoiling (I also recommend keeping it in the fridge when you’re not using it, or even the freezer for longer-term storage), and a few drops of your favourite essential oil like lavender for calm, peppermint for deodorizing and cooling, or ginger for warming – ginger is great for sore muscles! You could also add other creative little extras; I added ground vanilla bean to my lotion bars to exfoliate. It’s not for everyone, because you have specs of vanilla left behind on your skin.
There’s no trick to mixing the ingredients. Basically you combine the ingredients and melt them together either in the microwave or in a double-boiler on a stove top (essential oils are added last, after the heat is turned off or the other ingredients are already heated to a liquid), pour the liquid carefully into a heat-safe container or mold, and then let it cool down to a solid. That’s it!
If you want to make a hard balm in a bar form (you can use muffin tins/cups as a mold), you increase the amount of wax or decrease the amount of oil. If you like your balm softer, try less wax.
Lotions – If you want a liquid lotion you can put into a squeeze tube or pump bottle, and which absorbs more quickly into the skin (but also tends to moisturize less thoroughly), you’ll need an emulsifier to blend distilled water into the oils you’ll be using and prevent the oil from separating from the water. Some people use aloe gel as the base for their liquid lotion – adding any essential oil they like – and this generally works pretty well. I personally prefer a creamier buttery option, rather than a liquid I can squirt from a tube or bottle. Here’s a good recipe to look at if you prefer liquid.
A caveat: if you don’t drink enough water throughout the day, or if you don’t protect your skin from sun exposure, you might find it hard to keep your skin from getting dry and cracked. Getting enough sleep is another excellent way to keep skin looking its best.